The fresh clean air under the African sunlight, shining on the green farmlands filled with all kinds of vegetations; that is what surrounds me as I write this on my way to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, from Bahardar. We’re driving on a single-lane tarmac road that connects much of Africa; to me, it signifies unity and accessibility, bringing all of us together as one; this is the trans-African highway. What I love most about being on this road and driving through the countryside and the numerous villages, small and large alike, is seeing how people go about their daily routine; it speaks volumes – this diversity of Africa that encircles me. Next to me are many people walking on this road. Some strong women dressed in traditional Ethiopian clothing, barefoot, carrying firewood on their backs and other kinds of commodities. Footsteps away I see young boys and men, also dressed in traditional clothing, herding their cattle with their sticks, while having fun at the same time, especially the younger ones. As we drive by, along with other Africans driving by in busses and private cars around me, all my attention is on the numerous people walking on this road. They are making their way from the countryside into the nearby villages to connect with each other and to make a living; it is market day today in this part of the world, where everyone makes a living by selling their commodities; this is how they live in many parts of Africa, especially rural Africa. This is really opening my eyes to a side of Africa inspires me although I myself am not too familiar with it because I have not lived in rural Africa.
I was born and raised in the big city of Dar-es-salaam, in Tanzania; a place where both poverty and development coexist, where your neighbour across the street may live in a large luxurious house and own a brand new BMW and footsteps away, a family of eight is making ends meet in a small and congested two bedroom house. I’ve seen the poverty of urban life because some of my own family members live in hard conditions and at the same time, I’ve also seen the luxury of urban life in Africa. To be quite honest, living in urban Africa has closed my eyes to life in rural Africa and being here, on this road, reminds me of the untold stories of rural Africa. There is so much about rural Africa that needs to be acknowledged and shared and let me be the one to tell you all about it. A huge percentage of Africans still live in rural areas, in agrarian societies where generally speaking, communities focus on farming and herding animals. Seeing what I am seeing right now reminds me of the life of my grandmother, who was born and raised in a small village in rural Tanzania; seeing these strong women next to me carrying their firewood and children on their back takes me back to my grandmother’s stories of growing up in the village. As I look at my mothers and sisters of Africa walking by, all I can think of is how the story of rural Africa is a story of richness, strength and survival; the richness in the traditions and cultures that is firmly rooted these communities, the strength of the people who are working hard to make ends meet and the survival of these kinds of communities, which have been in existence for centuries. I won’t lie and tell you that poverty doesn’t exist in rural Africa because it does exist – but what I will tell you is that today, as we drive by these areas, it is the stamina, the friendliness and strength of the people around me that touch me the most. I see past the poverty, I see a strong people that are hardworking. It actually saddens me that for as long as I have lived in the developed world, I have not seen or heard or read much about the stories of these strong African rural communities in the media. All I saw in the media was a negative portrayal of rural Africans suffering and dying; I saw no stories of the richness and strength of these communities, the kind that I am seeing right now. I want the world to see this side of rural Africa the way I am seeing it. The reality that I am seeing right now is the reality of Africa; this is how people live in rural areas over here.
Rural and Urban Africa are two different stories that are intertwined. The one thread that connects Africa together is the strong sense of cultures and traditions that permeates the social fabric of the continent. While urban life may be fast-paced and focuses on development and improving economies and social standards, rural life is just as fast-paced, only in a different sense. Over here, in the countryside of the highlands of Ethiopia, and many other parts of Africa, people are focusing on their crops, their animals and their own communal growth – this is where their development lies. Looking out the window to the people on the road, many of them are smiling as they talk and walk together; seeing them happy in the midst of what I consider hard conditions (i.e. living in poverty) is really something else. It just goes to show you that it is the strength of a person and the strength of the communities that count the most. These are strong communities; these are the heroes of Africa. These are the stories that need to be told.
Now that I’ve managed to share that heartfelt moment of truth, let me share the last few days with you; they have been so enriching. We spent a few days in Gondar and Bahardar; two Ethiopian cities filled with culture and history, which gave me an insight into the past and the present life of many Ethiopians. Gondar was the royal capital city of Ethiopia for 250 years from the 1600s onwards. We visited the Royal Compound which is home to numerous castles and other royal buildings built by old Ethiopian Emperors; I was amazed to find that these are one of its kinds in Africa. Each king that reigned in Gondar built their own castle and other royal buildings; I have not heard of this in any other part of Africa. As I walked from castle to castle and as I listened to the rich stories behind each castle, I felt an irresistible sense of pride that I am certain all Ethiopians feel. What a rich civilization; both past and present. The same feeling overcame me yesterday while I was in Bahardar, on a small motorboat on Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia and the source of the Blue Nile. Lake Tana has 37 islands and on many of these islands are monasteries; 20 monasteries in total. After a thirty minute ride, we arrived at a peninsula on the lake; a peninsula home to 10,000 people and seven monasteries. We walked for about fifteen minutes, and arrived at one of the monasteries, built in the 14th century, 1800 metres above sea level. I was overwhelmed with what I was learning and seeing; namely the traditional lifestyle that the people are leading and their strong dedication to the church and God. I am aware that many parts of the world have such communities but these islands have something special about them; we are talking about islands that have maintained the same or close to the same, traditional lifestyles for centuries; from the local people to the monks. At this village of Ura Kidane Meheret, the church is the centre of everyone’s life; they are all strong Orthodox Christians who spend a lot of their time praying. I was told stories of past and present monks and people that spend their days and nights praying and doing nothing else; some of these people have chosen and continue to choose to abandon all worldly things for God – what a strong sense of devotion. The isolation of these islands allows much of the traditions and religious practices to remain unchanged from as early as the 9th century. People from all around the world come here to these islands to feel this sense of peace and dedication as they devote themselves to God. These monasteries hold fascinating paintings depicting religious scenes from the Bible and other kinds of religious art. It was quite interesting to see the intricate details on one of the church walls. I was also told that on one of the island monasteries, the Ark of the Covenant was once stored here when Axum was endangered. Just incredible history. When I was walking down to the lake from the monastery, a young boy of 10 followed me and we started talking. He told me he liked my pen and I didn’t even think twice about giving it to him. Sometimes something as small as a pen can really make a difference to a young boy; his smile was priceless and so heartfelt. I just hope it doesn’t run out on him before he gets another one from someone else. Right near the lake, I saw a woman selling scarves and bead bracelets filled with the bright colours of Ethiopia; red, green and yellow. Her little daughter approached me saying ‘sister, sister,’ so I stopped to talk to her. She pointed me to her mother who had a bracelet and a scarf in her hand, handing it to me. They were so warm and so friendly that I just couldn’t think twice about buying something from them because I knew that the money would help them. It only cost me $2.50.
Before I conclude and enjoy the last few hours of driving to Addis Ababa, I have to share one last moment with you all; my market experience in the highlands of Ethiopia – truly unforgettable, totally different from what I’ve seen take place in the markets of urban Africa, in my own city of Dar-es-salaam. This market I visited was filled with thousands of people selling and buying all kinds of things in an open space; young and old, men and women. I was shocked to find so much activity in a market of a small village but since this market caters to thousands of people in nearby regions, it makes sense. Shaunna pointed out something that I completely oversaw - the fact that most women here have short hair. Interestingly, the reason behind this is because they are so busy and have so much to do that having long hair is a burden. I’ve never seen such busy and active women on such a large scale – the women were almost dominating and running the entire market; talk about the power they possess. It actually felt good to be surrounded by these strong women, some with their babies on their back, working in the market, while others were carrying and arranging their commodities. I know for a fact the strength is not just physical, but mental and emotional – they have a huge burden on their back to take care of their families and coming to the market is their means of survival; they know what they need to do to keep their families going strong. As I said in my last journal, there really is so much to learn about Africa and from Africans – I think I’m going to spend my whole life doing exactly this. Honestly, I don’t know what else could make me happier.
I must say, today’s drive has enlightened me in so many ways and allowed me to reflect on what Africa represents to me; it’s an unforgettable journey. I can already see that my reflections are endless because of my quest for knowledge about my people and my land. I love what I’m seeing and the people I’m meeting. I should also add: it’s quite an honour that the local people of all the three countries we have been through (Egypt, Sudan and now Ethiopia) think I am from their countries. It just shows me how at the end of the day, Africa is one big family. It doesn’t matter to them that I am Tanzanian, they still see me as their ‘sister’ and that really makes me feel so welcomed everywhere I go. We have such a busy time in Addis but I’ll make sure to share the sights and sounds and tastes of Addis with all of you somehow. Until then, enjoy the winter for all of us while I embrace the charming capital of this historic country, a country I consider my second home. Did I mention just how tasty the food is in Ethiopia? It’s really something everyone should try!
The fresh clean air under the African sunlight, shining on the green farmlands filled with all kinds of vegetations; that is what surrounds me as I write this on my way to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, from Bahardar. We’re driving on a single-lane tarmac road that connects much of Africa; to me, it signifies unity and accessibility, bringing all of us together as one; this is the trans-African highway. What I love most about being on this road and driving through the countryside and the numerous villages, small and large alike, is seeing how people go about their daily routine; it speaks volumes – this diversity of Africa that encircles me. Next to me are many people walking on this road. Some strong women dressed in traditional Ethiopian clothing, barefoot, carrying firewood on their backs and other kinds of commodities. Footsteps away I see young boys and men, also dressed in traditional clothing, herding their cattle with their sticks, while having fun at the same time, especially the younger ones. As we drive by, along with other Africans driving by in busses and private cars around me, all my attention is on the numerous people walking on this road. They are making their way from the countryside into the nearby villages to connect with each other and to make a living; it is market day today in this part of the world, where everyone makes a living by selling their commodities; this is how they live in many parts of Africa, especially rural Africa. This is really opening my eyes to a side of Africa inspires me although I myself am not too familiar with it because I have not lived in rural Africa.
I was born and raised in the big city of Dar-es-salaam, in Tanzania; a place where both poverty and development coexist, where your neighbour across the street may live in a large luxurious house and own a brand new BMW and footsteps away, a family of eight is making ends meet in a small and congested two bedroom house. I’ve seen the poverty of urban life because some of my own family members live in hard conditions and at the same time, I’ve also seen the luxury of urban life in Africa. To be quite honest, living in urban Africa has closed my eyes to life in rural Africa and being here, on this road, reminds me of the untold stories of rural Africa. There is so much about rural Africa that needs to be acknowledged and shared and let me be the one to tell you all about it. A huge percentage of Africans still live in rural areas, in agrarian societies where generally speaking, communities focus on farming and herding animals. Seeing what I am seeing right now reminds me of the life of my grandmother, who was born and raised in a small village in rural Tanzania; seeing these strong women next to me carrying their firewood and children on their back takes me back to my grandmother’s stories of growing up in the village. As I look at my mothers and sisters of Africa walking by, all I can think of is how the story of rural Africa is a story of richness, strength and survival; the richness in the traditions and cultures that is firmly rooted these communities, the strength of the people who are working hard to make ends meet and the survival of these kinds of communities, which have been in existence for centuries. I won’t lie and tell you that poverty doesn’t exist in rural Africa because it does exist – but what I will tell you is that today, as we drive by these areas, it is the stamina, the friendliness and strength of the people around me that touch me the most. I see past the poverty, I see a strong people that are hardworking. It actually saddens me that for as long as I have lived in the developed world, I have not seen or heard or read much about the stories of these strong African rural communities in the media. All I saw in the media was a negative portrayal of rural Africans suffering and dying; I saw no stories of the richness and strength of these communities, the kind that I am seeing right now. I want the world to see this side of rural Africa the way I am seeing it. The reality that I am seeing right now is the reality of Africa; this is how people live in rural areas over here. 
Now that I’ve managed to share that heartfelt moment of truth, let me share the last few days with you; they have been so enriching. We spent a few days in Gondar and Bahardar; two Ethiopian cities filled with culture and history, which gave me an insight into the past and the present life of many Ethiopians. Gondar was the royal capital city of Ethiopia for 250 years from the 1600s onwards. We visited the Royal Compound which is home to numerous castles and other royal buildings built by old Ethiopian Emperors; I was amazed to find that these are one of its kinds in Africa. Each king that reigned in Gondar built their own castle and other royal buildings; I have not heard of this in any other part of Africa. As I walked from castle to castle and as I listened to the rich stories behind each castle, I felt an irresistible sense of pride that I am certain all Ethiopians feel. What a rich civilization; both past and present. The same feeling overcame me yesterday while I was in Bahardar, on a small motorboat on Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia and the source of the Blue Nile. Lake Tana has 37 islands and on many of these islands are monasteries; 20 monasteries in total. After a thirty minute ride, we arrived at a peninsula on the lake; a peninsula home to 10,000 people and seven monasteries. We walked for about fifteen minutes, and arrived at one of the monasteries, built in the 14th century, 1800 metres above sea level. I was overwhelmed with what I was learning and seeing; namely the traditional lifestyle that the people are leading and their strong dedication to the church and God. I am aware that many parts of the world have such communities but these islands have something special about them; we are talking about islands that have maintained the same or close to the same, traditional lifestyles for centuries; from the local people to the monks. At this village of Ura Kidane Meheret, the church is the centre of everyone’s life; they are all strong Orthodox Christians who spend a lot of their time praying. I was told stories of past and present monks and people that spend their days and nights praying and doing nothing else; some of these people have chosen and continue to choose to abandon all worldly things for God – what a strong sense of devotion. The isolation of these islands allows much of the traditions and religious practices to remain unchanged from as early as the 9th century. People from all around the world come here to these islands to feel this sense of peace and dedication as they devote themselves to God. These monasteries hold fascinating paintings depicting religious scenes from the Bible and other kinds of religious art. It was quite interesting to see the intricate details on one of the church walls. I was also told that on one of the island monasteries, the Ark of the Covenant was once stored here when Axum was endangered. Just incredible history. When I was walking down to the lake from the monastery, a young boy of 10 followed me and we started talking. He told me he liked my pen and I didn’t even think twice about giving it to him. Sometimes something as small as a pen can really make a difference to a young boy; his smile was priceless and so heartfelt. I just hope it doesn’t run out on him before he gets another one from someone else. Right near the lake, I saw a woman selling scarves and bead bracelets filled with the bright colours of Ethiopia; red, green and yellow. Her little daughter approached me saying ‘sister, sister,’ so I stopped to talk to her. She pointed me to her mother who had a bracelet and a scarf in her hand, handing it to me. They were so warm and so friendly that I just couldn’t think twice about buying something from them because I knew that the money would help them. It only cost me $2.50.